Eat, Eat, Eat!

I was going to start this blog by saying that I don’t want to make generalisations about Ethiopia … but hey, I’ve been making enough sweeping generalisations just recently, that another few (positive) ones won’t hurt, so here we go ..

Ethiopians are possibly the most hospitable people I have ever met. Ever. I remember coming home from Lalibela (the first time I visited) with the overriding impression of generosity - you give someone a tip and they give half of it to the beggar sitting next to them, while people who clearly have nothing want to invite you in for tea and ply you with piles of food. Every celebration or visit is full of offers of food or drink, and I know this isn’t just because I am a ‘faranji’, it’s a default way of treating guests of any nationality.

As someone who is notoriously uncomfortable in groups and actually not that sociable, I am a rubbish hostess and sometimes find it a bit overwhelming to be the focus of so much hospitality. It can also sometimes conflict with my need for schedules – I swear, if we stopped every time someone asked us in for a drink or some dinner, it would take us more than 4 hours to do the 1 hour drive from the school!



The hospitality of the Ethiopian people is one of the reasons I am drinking so much in Lalibela, too. Home made beer called ‘talla’ is very popular here, and it’s kind of rude to say no when it’s offered – even if you’re a lightweight who doesn’t normally drink, and it’s 10.30am and you haven’t even had your breakfast. Last week there was a celebration in the local area where the school is based, and one of the students brought me two litres of talla. I accepted it with thanks, but if I’d actually drunk it, Abiy and Aman would have had to carry me up to my house!

However, the hospitality and generosity shown is one of the things I love about Ethiopia, and one of the things I think makes it such a joy to spend time in the country. Personally, I experience it every time I come to Addis and I stay with E and M, where they treat me like the most valued guest on earth.

The hospitality gene does seems to increase after childbirth - since having her baby, E has developed an obsession with feeding people. I come to her house and the conversation goes something like this:

E: Have some lunch
J: Oh, it’s okay, thank you, I had lunch already
E: Just a little bit …
J: Honestly, I’m fine, I’m full
E: Well maybe have a banana
J: Okay, I’ll have a banana
E: And maybe a mango?
J: No, no, honestly, I’ll just have a banana …

She’s turning into a feeder!

But in general, my hostess and hospitality skills are a disgrace compared to those of the people I live and work with – I never have nice food to offer my guests, and I would prefer all visitors arrive after CSI on a Monday evening. I’m hoping I might gain the ‘hospitality gene’ through osmosis …